Frankincense in Perfumery: Facts and Favorites

In September 2021, I shared the known and believed origins of Frankincense, and its usage around the world over time. Today, Frankincense is known not only as one of the Three Wise Men’s gifts to the baby Jesus. It is a key player in perfume, incense, meditation, skincare, and prayer. It also plays a role in Fragrance as Wellness, which lives under the umbrella of Beauty as Wellness.

Fragrance can adjust our moods emotionally, visually, and neurologically. The first of the five senses to develop is scent. Thus, it is connected to almost everything we feel, do, and think. On a bad day, the smell of conifer trees rejuvenates and uplifts. The resulting mood shift imparts smiles, better posture, and positive energy that people witness and respond to. For the holiday season, I am writing an article about the powerful relationship between fragrance and the brain.

Frankincense, also referred to as incense (derived from the Old French word franc encens, meaning high quality incense) and precious wood, is generally a base, or a fixative, in modern perfume-making. When it’s a base, or base note, its heavier molecular existence makes it the scent’s longest-lasting element. While less frequent, Frankincense is also used as a heart or middle note (where it blends all the ingredients and provides the overall scent), or a top note (which is smelled first, and is the fragrance’s first impression). When Frankincense is one of the base notes, it helps keep the fragrance close to the skin, allowing the smell to blossom later and sustain a longer time in one’s nose.

Historically, Frankincense was used almost exclusively in men’s fragrances. Today, it is a unisex ingredient, and has become sought-after for women’s fragrances, due to its complex scent molecules. Here is a list of my favorite fragrances that include Frankincense, my description of each scent, and how they can affect the user’s spirit. Note that my preferred fragrances tend to be what the industry and community call “natural” perfumes. Check back next month for my piece about natural ingredients, synthetic ingredients, the complex history of ingredients, and perfumeries around the world that pair traditional formulations with modern science.

Frankincense Perfume by Enfleurage

This perfume takes you on a journey to the ancient souk markets of the spice trade. The rich blend of multiple Frankincense oils makes you feel like a king. This is 100% natural, and on my list for Fragrance as Wellness.

Notes include: Frankincense

Available at enfleurage.

Holy Water by AbdesSalam Attar

This is a beautifully crafted perfume that is subtly sublime and has profound effects. I feel it calms the nerves, uplifts the heart, and revives the spirit. I have often worn this perfume, by splashing on my chest when I want to gain strength, and feel fortified and grateful. This is a favorite of perfume critic Luca Turin. It is 100% natural, and on my list for Fragrance as Wellness.

Notes include: Frankincense, Rose, Sandalwood, Orange Blossom.

Available at Natural Niche Perfume.

Calling all Angels by April Aromatics

This is a deeply sensual perfume that helps you relax, unwind, and dream of ancient lands. I feel the complex blend of spices, resins, and Frankincense create a warm and nurturing cocoon. I have often worn this to create a feeling of strength and luxury. This was a winner of the Art and Olfaction Awards. It is 100% natural, and on my list for Fragrance as Wellness.

Notes include: Incense, Labdanum, Vanilla, Honey, Amber, Precious Woods, Opoponax, Elemi Resin, Tonka Bean, Benzoin, Frankincense.

Available at April Aromatics.

Indigo by Baruti

I find this perfume is rich, strong, and narcotic. A powerful blend that combines the deep woods and vibrant fresh florals, accentuated with mastic. One could use this perfume when they want to make a statement. This is a dynamic blend that combines Frankincense with the deep woods and vibrant fresh florals. Wear Indigo when you want to make a scented statement.

Notes include: Mastic, Hyacinth, Rose, Frankincense, Atlas Cedar, Sandalwood, Nooud, Amber.

Available at Baruti Perfumes.

Black Tourmaline by Oliver Durbano

This is a smoky, sultry, decadent-smelling perfume that is a mix of burnt woods and aromatic spices. It feels like a warm crackling campfire with whispers of sweet incense.

Notes include: Cardamom, Coriander, Cumin, Frankincense, Pepper Precious Woods, Smoked Woods, Oud, Leather, musk, Amber, Moss, Patchouli.

Available at Olivier Durbano.

Forty Thieves by Fort and Manlé

This perfume has a fascinating mixture of amber, oud, and spices, Invoking daydreams of the ancient Arabian incense route through the Middle East. This composition can be mysterious and fantasy invoking.

Notes include: Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Petitgrain, Incense, Labdanum, Papyrus, Rose, Honey, Orange Blossom, Amber, Sandalwood, Oud, Vanilla, Balsam.

Available at Fort and Manlé.